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Buenos Aires by Neighborhood

Buenos Aires skyline with obelisk

Get a SUBE card from kiosks labeled ‘Aqui SUBE’ and load pesos in cash. When exchanging money, use official casas de cambio or reputable cuevas recommended by your accommodation—avoid street ‘arbolitos’. Cards work widely but small cafés still prefer cash.

San Telmo + Microcentro

Sunday’s Feria de San Telmo runs 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; arrive early to browse antiques before tango shows start. Combine it with a walk to Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada tour (free tickets released online on Thursdays).

Palermo Evenings

Palermo Soho and Hollywood fill with bars after 6 p.m. Reserve parrillas like Don Julio or La Cabrera weeks prior, or try cheaper neighborhood parrillas such as El Ferroviario near Liniers. Dinner rarely begins before 9 p.m., so grab merienda (coffee + medialunas) around 6 p.m.

Must-Try

  • Café Tortoni for historical ambiance—expect queues but the marble tables are worth the wait.
  • La Glorieta de Belgrano (Fri–Sun) for free outdoor tango lessons.
  • Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur for a car-free bike ride along the river; bring mosquito repellent in summer.

Keep phones tucked away while walking along 9 de Julio Avenue and avoid ATMs on empty streets after dark. Radio taxis or Cabify rides are safest late at night.